It's been extensively touted by all kinds of media as one of the finest B&Bs in Ireland, and we, too, have lost our hearts to the Green Gate***, which is quite unlike any other lodging experience. Situated above the delightful village of Ardara, the Geen Gate is a rather magical cluster of white-washed cottages restored many years ago by French philosopher and writer, Paul Chatenoud. Now he runs this hilltop getaway as what he likes to call « a free estate », which means that there’s a touch of bohemia here - there are no silly structures (breakfast is whenever you want it, for example) and the only thing Paul doesn’t tolerate is snooty, demanding guests in search of luxury (as Paul is quick to point out, « no TV, no computers, no e-mail » ... which in our book, spells « freedom »).
The setting is gloriously remote and isolated, and yet a very short drive from Ardara’s 13 pubs, and within easy reach of a number of fine beaches. Of the four bedrooms, three are in a converted thatched shed (€90 double), a « hobbit »-like space, each with a handsome little bathroom (with a skylight above the tub), quality antique furnishings, and low doorways. A fourth room (E 110 double) occupies a separate old slate-roofed cottage and is somewhat more spacious, with mesmeric views from both the bed and the bathtub (there is also a bidet in this bathroom).
Prepare for great Irish breakfasts (with 20 different jams and marmelades made by Paul’s neighbour), Turf-fuelled fire in Paul’s cozy, homey kitchen, and riveting conversations. It may seem ironic that a Frenchman has created the ideal, most idyllic getaway, but perhaps it takes a foreigner to recognize the loveliness that others might have too-easily taken for granted.
| Br. Keith Bain |  |
June 2009 (USA) |